South Korea

Good to know

• Safety and North Korea — South Korea is one of the safest countries in the world: very low crime, a widespread police presence and CCTV everywhere - you can move around safely even at night. The peninsula has technically been under an armistice truce with North Korea since 1953, with alternating phases of tension: the situation is stable, but it is wise to stay informed via your embassy. Do watch out for summer typhoons and, in Seoul, smog peaks (check an air-quality app).
• The DMZ and military areas — The Demilitarized Zone along the 38th parallel can only be visited on authorised group tours (passport and advance booking required; the JSA visit at Panmunjeom can be suspended). In the strip south of the DMZ (Civilian Control Line) there are still minefields: stay on authorised paths and follow instructions. Do not photograph military installations or personnel.
• Drugs, smoking and strict laws — Anti-drug laws are extremely harsh: even small amounts of any substance can lead to severe penalties, up to life imprisonment, with immediate arrest. Smoking is banned in most public areas (use only designated zones), with heavy fines. Foreigners are forbidden from taking part in political demonstrations. Never sign documents in Korean without an interpreter.
• Etiquette and photographing people — Laws on sexual offences are very strict: avoid physical contact with strangers, especially in public and entertainment venues. WARNING: photographing or filming people without their explicit consent is considered a crime and can lead to detention or arrest - be careful with your camera in crowded places. Otherwise Koreans are courteous and formal: you take your shoes off in homes and traditional guesthouses, use both hands to give and receive objects, and respect queues.
• Transport and driving — Public transport is the best way to get around: an ultra-modern metro and high-speed KTX trains link the whole country, and the T-money card works on metro, buses and taxis in the main cities. Taxis are cheap and reliable (pay by card or T-money). For Jeju it is best to rent a car: you need an International Driving Permit (Geneva 1949 or Vienna 1968), minimum age 21 and one year's experience; insurance is compulsory, seatbelts for all, and the alcohol limit is very low (0.03%).
• Customs and entry bans — Since 2019 it is forbidden to bring animal products (meat, cured meats, dairy) into Korea, to prevent disease outbreaks: failure to declare leads to very high fines. You must also declare weapons (including replicas), large amounts of currency and goods above the allowance (1 bottle of alcohol, 1 carton of cigarettes, 60 ml of perfume, goods under 600 dollars). When in doubt, use the 'Goods to Declare' channel.